From tailcoat to hoodie: the evolution of streetwear style

Streetwear is one of today's most defining fashion movements, blending self-expression, comfort and a sense of belonging all at once. Although today you'll see hoodies and sneakers even on luxury runways, the style's roots go all the way back to the Middle Ages. The road from tailcoat to hoodie is long and varied: from workwear through rebellious subcultures to global fashion icon status.

The centuries-old history of the hood

The hood goes back to the Middle Ages, when monks and peasants wore it, mainly for protection against cold and rain. These habits and cloaks were functional and used by every social class regardless of status.

The story of the modern hooded sweatshirt – the hoodie – began in 1930s America, when Champion designed it as workwear to keep outdoor workers warm during the winter months.

The birth of streetwear in the '70s and '80s

Streetwear as we know it today grew out of the countercultures of the 1970s and '80s.

• Hip-hop communities in New York and Los Angeles used hoodies, sneakers and baseball caps to express their own style.
• Surf culture in California brought a comfy, outdoor lifestyle into fashion with loose tees, shorts and hooded tops.
• The skate community loved the hoodie for its function: it gave freedom of movement and protected against the weather.

In this period the hoodie was no longer just a piece of clothing – it was a symbol of rebellion, freedom and individuality.

The '90s – when the logo became the message

In the '90s, streetwear entered a new era. Branding and logos weren't just decoration anymore – they became a form of self-expression.

• Pieces from Supreme, Stüssy, FUBU or Tommy Hilfiger became status symbols.
• For young people, wearing a logo meant showing where you belonged – your tee and hoodie showed which crew or style you stood with.
• Hip-hop and pop culture stars made the movement popular worldwide.

That's when streetwear started moving beyond subcultures and became part of mainstream fashion.

If you want to learn more about the history of Supreme, read our earlier article!

From the 2000s to today – where streetwear meets luxury

After the turn of the millennium, streetwear was no longer just “street wear” – it became one of the defining forces of the fashion industry.

• High-fashion designers like Virgil Abloh (Off-White, Louis Vuitton) and Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga) brought the hoodie and sneakers onto the runway.
• “Drop” culture and limited releases made streetwear even more exclusive.
• Modern trends brought in “invisible luxury” – clean, logo-free hoodies and basics in premium materials.

The road from tailcoat to hoodie is one of fashion's most exciting evolutions. From a practical medieval garment through workwear, the countercultures of the '70s and '80s shaped streetwear; in the '90s the logo became the message; and since the 2000s, the meeting of luxury and the street has defined the style.

Today the hoodie isn't just a comfy top – it's a global language, a symbol of self-expression, community identity and style.

If you want to be part of streetwear culture, check out the OnSize lineup!

 

Image sources: strikemagazines.com, bonnegueule.fr,